Looking for Tigers in Ranthambore

Spotted deer. All my photos
The star of the Indian wildlife reserves must be Ranthambore. This is a massive area of some 392  square km and it is a great place to look for Tigers. This was my third trip to look for wild Tigers, so, hopefully, 3rd time lucky. My first attempt to see wild Tigers was in Chitwan National Park in Nepal and the second effort was Jim Corbett Reserve in India. Came close in both reserves, but just saw beautiful tiger tracks.

Ranthambore is close to the town of Sawai Madhopur in Rajastan. Apart from the main attraction - the tigers - Ranthambore is also a famous heritage site with various ruins within the boundaries of the reserve.
Local gathering wood outside the reserve

Tiger painting at the train station
My trip started with a hotel close to one of the railway stations in Delhi. All of my previous trips to India, I was doing consulting for companies in India, and I had only been accommodated in top of the range hotels, so this was my first "tourist" hotel. A bit of a downgrade, but comfortable and clean. Early morning trip to the railway station to catch the train. I had booked a 2nd class, air conditioned sleeper seat. This was on a train which runs between the Golden temple and Mumbai. A three day train journey. My part of the journey was only about 7 hours. Must say, the trains were pretty much on time. Very interesting experience. I was in an area with a young family. Could not speak much English, but were very friendly. My biggest worry was that I would miss my station Madhopur. A very helpful train conductor arrived at my seat  before my station and helped me off. The tour company had someone to meet me at the station and he took me to my hotel. Again, comfortable and clean. Meals were also included and the food was good.

Sumba deer
My trip included 4 trips into Ranthambore. This was in a small jeep with 6 people squashed in. I had my camera bag with me, so really squashed in. First drive was an early morning drive. There were many of these small Jeeps at the gate. Each driver gets a specific part of the reserve that they can visit in that trip. Ranthambore is really a very beautiful reserve. Very large trees, with lots of monkeys, and pretty open spaces under the trees. Much like the African bush. Quite open, so possible to see the animals. There were also some lakes with lots of water. Many of the normal Indian wildlife, like the very beautiful spotted deer, sumba deer and Nilgai - also known as the blue bull (no not the rugby team) were plentiful. Everyone was here for one thing, and one thing only, Tigers. Whisked pass many beautiful birds and animals, like the comical looking bush pigs. I had seen all of the typical Indian wildlife in Jim Corbett and Chitwan, so nothing new.

Female Nilgai (blue bull)
On this  first trip, there was suddenly much excitement. Lots of Jeeps. Apparently there was a tiger lying in the road right in front of a jeep. Ranger etiquette, and the treat of a hefty fin prevented other Jeeps  from getting closer. We were quite some way from the tiger. A few people on our jeep said they could see it. I was not one of them. Three trips and so close, but still so far! Then the tiger moved off. I got a very fleeting glimpse of something moving and if I really pushed my imagination, I thought I saw strips. By the end of the third trip, I was very busy consoling myself that I had, in fact seen a wild tiger, even if it was just a fleeting glimpse.

Wild Peacock - this is where they come from!
The forth and last trip during my stay at Ranthambore started. Needless to say the other two trips were tiger less. Time was ticking on and still no good wild tiger photo. Somehow, the drivers manage to communicate with each other. There is a tiger in a different part of the reserve. The driver and guide told us that we can head for the area where the tiger was, but they would be fined. If we were prepared to pay the fine, we can give it a bash. So off we went.
Bush pigs

It was not too long before we found fresh tiger tracks crossing the road. Tiger tracks again. By now I had seen nice tiger tracks in all the reserves. There is a big difference between seeing tiger tracks and seeing what makes the tracks! He was heading for the river. We came around a bend and all of the vehicle in Ranthambore were there, but no tiger. We were told that he was heading for the river, but we knew that from the tracks we had seen. There was quite a steep cliff overlooking the river. All of a sudden he appeared! Beautiful sighting. He was a bit far, but within the range of my 500 mm lens. Not award winning photos, but MY photos of a wild tiger. I did get stunning photos of Tigers playing in the water at the tiger temple in Thailand (see previous post) so I do have some really great tiger photos, but this was a wild tiger, in his kingdom. . He moved down the slope a bit and found a good ledge to lie down on. He carefully picked his ledge where everyone could get a really good view of him. After a good while with the tiger, it was time to leave. A great tiger at the end of my forth tip into Ranthambore. So it was 3rd time lucky!
My tiger in the wild photo

Got the train back the next day, and much to my surprise, the very helpful conductor was on duty again and he made sure that I got off at Delhi. My final hotel on this trip was close to the airport and the next day I headed home on my favourite airline (Emirates). Great trip and a big tick on my wish list done! Polar bear is still firmly at the top of my wish list, but wild tiger was number 2. Been there, done that!
Waiting for the train "home"

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Embassed Elephant

Richard Bragg in the First World War - Part 2 - Trench trains